Caution: Big Wave Advisory!!

Wiamea, Sunset Beach, Off-the-Wall, the Banzai Pipeline... the fabled North Shore. This 7 mile long holy grail of surf really lives up to it's name (it's a shore and it's in the north) and its reputation (as the best in the world). I've spent the last three days up there. Hanging out with the hardcore surfers and watching some incredible waves. As soon as I got there the meterologists started talking about a sweet swell coming in and you could literally feel the excitement in the air around "town." The North Shore consists of a road along the beach that is lined with ramshackle houses, broken surfboards, three food stands and a grocery store. An awesome getaway from the rest of Hawaii filled with tricked out tourist spots. And when the swells come in you can see why they're there - huge friggin' waves! (Don't worry I pretty much stayed out of them, I read about how much even the pros get hurt and I've got more important things coming up) I would go from one break to the other and watch the pros shred and the others get worked. Sunset, to Pipe, to Wiamea, they were all good and amazing to watch such fluid power, and those who try to harness it.
Last night I pulled out my $10 Walmart sleeping bag and slept out on Sunset Beach with the sound of surf crashing in my ears (not like you've heard before, I mean crashing!). I woke up at dawn, hid my bag before the lifeguards came, and watched as guys showed up with their boards and paddled out to where the waves were breaking at 15 feet.
Tomorrow I wake up before the sun and fly over to the Big Island to explore it for a few days, the last segment on this current adventure. Live it up!